How do you determine draw weight and draw length for archery?
I’m thinking of buying a custom bow and I need to know how you determine draw weight percentage and draw length.
Thanks
Not modern bows. I’m talking about the ol’ hickory wood bows.
I’m very new to this. So I really don’t know many of the terminologies needed to know. The main purpose is to display, but I would like to learn how to shoot. I hold bows with my left hand. If you know of any dealers in Oregon, that would be great. Also, if any training courses are availible in Oregon, that would be great.
Good question, and it deserves a good answer. I’ll try to keep my answer as non-technical as I can, while giving as complete an answer as possible.
Draw weight is the amount of force required to pull the bowstring back to a specified distance, from its “relaxed” position; it is also the amount of force imparted to the arrow upon release of the bowstring.
Draw length is the distance from the bowstring, at full draw, to the BACK of the arrow point — usually immediately behind the second knuckle (counting from where the finger meets the hand) of the index finger on the bow hand. Full draw is achieved when the bowstring is at the “anchor point”, which is the place the archer CONSISTENTLY pulls the bowstring to. If your anchor point is 30 inches from the back of the arrow point, your draw length is 30 inches.
But wait, there’s more: Draw weight is calculated at a set distance of 28 inches, so if your draw length is shorter or longer than this your draw weight will be different. For each inch difference in draw length, there is a 2 1/2 pound difference in draw weight: For a bow with a 50 pound draw weight @ 28 inches, a draw length of 30 inches means that bow will have a draw weight of 55 pounds. Conversely, a draw length of 25 inches would mean a draw weight of only 42 1/2 pounds.
So, when you order that custom bow, be sure to tell the bowyer what your personal draw length is and how much draw weight you can handle (for this, you need to actually try some bows. Please see the included link for some extremely useful information regarding how much poundage is “enough”). When you get arrows for that new bow, you will need to let your fletcher (that’s the person who makes the arrows) know what kind of bow it is, the draw weight, the draw length and whether or not the bow is a “center shot” (has a “shelf” to rest the arrow on) or “off the hand” (does not have a “shelf” for the arrow) type, as well as what kind of arrow you want (aluminum, carbon or wood; if wood, what kind of wood – cedar is the most common wood for arrows).
For information on where to learn archery, I have included a couple of links below. The first one is for sending e-mail to a person who is called “The An Tir Royal Archer” (if you use this one, do NOT call the person “Your Highness” or “Your Majesty”. I don’t think they have that rank). “An Tir” is a part of The Society for Creative Anachronisms, Inc. — SCA for short — and Oregon is part of “An Tir”. The second is for “TradGang”, a forum for people interested in traditional archery, including hunting with traditional archery gear.
I hope my answer helps you with what you needed to know. May all your arrows find their mark!
Minaki Archery – “Shop Talk” video 1